I call these Garratt cylinders as they were drawn for a Garratt I am scratch building. They suit large locos as they measure 14mm across the end covers, the cylinder part is 12mm diameter and height of the valve inspection cover is 15mm. Location is with 2 pegs on the rear, just drill holes in your frames to suit. The 3 pegs underneath are automatic drain cocks, quite common from the 1920s onward. These were designed for a chassis with outside frames, I can make an extended version for inside frames by adding 1.5mm to the mounting face.
Garratt cylinders with brass tube for piston rod £6.00 a pair
I have suitable single slidebar crossheads to fit these at £4.00 apair
Like many others I always struggle to get wheels onto axles, plain axles are not so bad as they can be done in a vice, pinpoint axles being the worst as you have to not damage the points as well. I often take 5 minutes per axle gently tweaking the wheels to get them square and to gauge so I thought about some kind of jig to do the hard work.
A one shot jig that assembled both wheels in one go would be nice but a different one would be needed for every gauge, and I deal with 7 or 8 gauges so this is the next best thing. You get a base plate that mounts in a machine vice and a spacer for each gauge you use, the standard kit will come with 16.5, 14 and 12mm spacers. To use it you will need a vetical drill, vertical mill or an attachment that fits a lathe, and a suitable machine vice to hold the base plate. It works like this -
1 - Fit the axle in the chuck and lower towards the base plate, lining the point up with one of the drillings. 2 - Place the spacer with a wheel on top over the drilling and bring the axle back down pushing it throughthe wheel and spacer into the drilling until you feel it bottom out. 3 - remove the axle and refit the other way round and repeat step 2.
The wheels should now be fitted squarely and to gauge. Note that this only works with standard 26mm pinpoint axles and wheels of 2.5mm thickness, which mine are. For other axle lengths or wheel thicknesses different spacers will be needed which I can supply by calculating from the axle lengths, wheel thicknesses and gauge. There are 3 drillings in the base plate, this is because they will wear in time and this gives you 3 times the length of use of the jig. Also some might find it better to solder the spacers permanantly above a drilling, then you can have 3 gauges per jig.
From the 4 pictures you can see the first wheel lined up and ready, after fitting it, the second wheel being fitted and the wheelset shown being checked on a vernier gauge, fortunately it was a 14mm gauge set I was hoping for. When you first try it, it might take a few minutes to do the first one, when you get the idea they can be done in less than 30 seconds each.
I can supply these for £12.00 each with extra spacers foc if ordered with the jig
For use on WD locos, on the roof of the Joffre or hanging on the brackets of other types. 120mm long, longer lengths on request, and 2mm diameter with a can on one end and a flange on the other, the hose part is rolled to give it texture similar to a canvas hose of the period. It is made of solder so can be bent to shape but must be glued in place.
Water pick up hose - £3.00
Not very easy to photograph, these are dummy tank sides to cover the cast chassis center piece on a Bachmann chassis used under A1 body kits. There are 2 types 25mm long and 10mm diameter, either 4 or 6mm thick. The top picture shows the 4mm ones fitted in place. The top detail is a filler cap and the middle one a fuel gauge. I also made a pair with the details 5mm off center as fitted in the bottom picture as the detail clashed with the cab steps on a center cab loco.
A pair of any type - £2.00
Designed to use the Slaters 21mm gauge CDR wheel sets. They are made in 5 parts, a top, 2 axle retainers and 2 outside frames which assemble with super glue. The ones shown were printed in a new resin that gives a sort of scrappy appearance and remains too flexible after printing. I have since switched to my regular resin which is much better but hard to photograph. I will replace the pictures when I have new bogies and can prime them.
1 pair of T&D bogies - £16.00
I can modify the drawing for 16.5 or 14mm if anyone wants them at the same price.
Left is a picture of modified parts made for a German guy in 16.5mm gauge. The bogies above suit 22L which are 4ft wheelbase, he also wanted bogies for 21L which are slightly different and 3ft 6in wheelbase. These are now available in any gauge and use 14mm wheels, either disc type or Gibson 8 spoke, the bogie price is as above.
For use when there is not enough room to get a Kadee box behind the buffer beam, these extend the coupling outwards by 5mm, less if you file them back a bit. Also of use with my Chopper couplings.
1 pair of extenders - £1.00
Made by request for a customer as there was nothing available. I can supply this in different sizes by scaling the drawing if you need a different size.
Smokebox door - £1.50
I looks like I am one of the few that have managed to get a Kelant S400 printer to behave itself and print properly. I have posted details on a printing forum and have received several emails from people around the world for advice so I shall repeat it all here so its on record for good.
The Kelant is a good printer but it has requirements that are completely different from most other printers. It took me around 30 prints to find the settings it liked, all failed for various reasons but it now prints well every time. Chitubox is the best slicer to use for the Kelant, I found the slicer that came with it lacking in features and not reliable. All the settings below are based on Chitubox, for other slicers the settings will be the same but the names of the settings may be a little different.
Go into Settings in Chitubox and name the profile Kelant S400. If you use other printers, the Kelant X and Y axis may not be the same way round, my Photons are the other way. Set the resolution to X - 2560 and Y - 1600, set the size to X - 192, Y - 120 and Z - 200, ensure that the box for Lock Ratio is ticked, actually it is solid grey rather than white.
The main problem is that the separation forces when the film is pulled off the print are high and can pull the print apart or even pull it off the build plate. To counter this you must use heavy supports for large items and medium supports for smaller parts. The medium supports must be made thicker in the slicer as they will not work as they are preset, minimum thickness 1.2mm for the middle sections. If you use Chitubox, a raft is generated when you go to add the supports, I found that the supports do not attach well to the raft and often fail, the solution is to click Remove All and the raft will disappear. Now when supports are added they will all have their own bases which will all merge into one to form a raft, these will print well. You can change the shape of the base in the settings, I use a cylinder 1mm thick, do not use thicker or the print will be very difficult to remove from the plate.
If the print has no flat faces it can be printed in any position but it is better to tilt it so that the amount being printed for each layer is kept to a minimum, particularly the first few layers of the actual print as these are most likely to fail. If the print is a geometric shape, tilt it so that the base is at an angle of 30 to 50 degrees to the plate and then tilt it sideways by about 8 degrees, this means that the print will start in one corner and move out in all directions which is better for the printer, the film and the supports. Apart from ease of printing, the base of the model which has the supports will never print well with this type of printing. If positioned level it will need a lot of supports and will print very rough, as you tilt the print it will improve in finish but it will never be good and will need sanding afterwards. If you tilt the print past 45 degrees you will need supports at the side or end as well which will then suffer from a poor finish. I find that the best way is to decide which face can be easily sanded, make it 0.5mm deeper and sand it back after printing. Some of my prints are assemblies and the poor face can be hidden by other parts, or if the part is hollow it can be supported from inside where the problem will not show.
- Layer Height - I use 0.1mm for most things as there is no real improvement in quality if you go smaller but the print takes a lot longer, the following settings are based on that.
- Bottom Layer Count - 8, any more will make the base like armour plating and impossible to get off the plate.
- Transition Layer Count - leave at O as the Kelant does not use this.
- Exposure Time - 8.5 - 11 sec for white or grey resins, translucent resins can use 7.5 - 10 sec and dark colours 9 - 12 sec. The shorter times will leave the print soft and liable to warping after printing when it finishes curing, the longer times will mostly complete curing in the printing process. For organic shapes (no straight edges) the shorter times work fine but for geometric shapes use the longer times as post print distortion is far more noticable with them.
- Bottom Exposure Time - 50 sec for white or grey, 45 sec for translucent and 55 sec for dark colours.
- Light Off Delay and Bottom Light Off Delay - 0 sec, not required for most uses.
- Bottom Lift Distance (Kelant call this First Lift) - 4mm. Listen to the machine in use and you can hear it speed up as it gets to normal lift speed, you should hear the film tearing off the print before this happens. For a small print in the middle of the plate increase this to 5 or 6mm as the film flexes more with a small print, the film separation must be complete before the first lift is finished.
- Lifting Distance (Kelant call this Second Lift) - I use 5mm but it can be up to 15mm.
Bottom Lift Speed - 15mm/min, this must always be very slow.
Lifting Speed and Retract Speed - both can be 200mm/min.
- Leave both light settings at 255
- Anti-ailiasing should be ON and I use Level 4.
- Do not use Grey Level or Image Blur
When saving files for printing use zip format, it is the only option that a Kelant can use. File names must have no spaces or special characters, use underscore for spaces if you add to the file name. When ready to print, turn on the machine but do not insert the flash drive until the machine has finished loading or it will not detect it. Use the flash drive supplied which is of the long skinny type, fat bodied ones will hit the casing before making connection and will not work. Find the file and select it for printing, all the parameters you set in Chitubox will be displayed on the screen. You can make changes before printing to the speeds, exposure and distances but do not alter the layer height, to do this you must start again in Chitubox with the new layer height set there. If you want more than 1 print, save any changes you make and it will use the new settings for further prints.
I am happy to answer individual questions by email but this should get you started, the settings the machine and Chitubox default to will work on most small printers but not the Kelant and I suspect not any printer with a larger print area. It is mainly the film separation forces that are the problem, a bigger film has much higher forces that have to be avoided by careful settings. Kelant's solution is to use a lot more supports which uses a lot more resin and does nothing for the print quality. None of the settings are written in stone, they can be varied but may have adverse affects on quality or adhesion, if you try some that are better, let me know and I can try them myself.