All my loco kits are sold complete except for couplings. All outside frame loco kits can be built to any gauge from 12mm to 16.5mm, inside frame kits only to gauges where axles are available, usually 12mm, 14mm and 16.5mm. Some kits include jigs for assembling coupling/connecting rods and for quartering the wheels where required. Assembly is by tabs and slots and all screws, bushes, motor, gearbox, wheels and axles are included.
Although most of my kits require soldering skills, you don't have to be an expert, beginners have bought my kits and produced good results. The trick is not to look at the whole job which will seem daunting, but to take it in stages. Each stage will be a lot easier to tackle if you only concentrate on that and think about the rest later. Use 145 solder for the main body assembly and higher temperature electrical solder for the chassis and smaller parts.
Goods can be paid for by bank transfer or Paypal (instant) or by cheque (7 day delay), email for details. At shows I can take cash or card payments using my new smart phone linked card reader. Technology is a wonderful thing, I just hope it works when I need it.
If you have any problems with the instructions CDs, the full instructions and more can be downloaded from my other site set up specially for downloads. Click on the DOWNLOADS button below to go there. These are also available to anyone who wants to look a kit over before buying it.
This new website goes by the slightly different name of locosnstuff.com rather than the previous locosnstuff.co.uk. I have changed provider and could not take the name with me, apparently .co.uk sites cannot be transferred to other providers. This will be my main site from now on and the old one was cancelled on the 20th September.
I had to fit Kadee couplings to a Peckett and found that they interfered with the chassis fixing screws. The solution was an extension to move the coupling out a few millimeters. Rather than make them I drew them in 3D and printed them. They were so successful that I printed some more and they are available in pairs, see parts and accessories.
I am also trialing a budget hand held controller of the pulse width modulated type. I buy in the boards ready made and add a printed box, reversing switch and leads. It runs on a 12 volt DC supply and performs superbly. The benefits of pulse width modulation are better starting and very little heat given off in use. I used my test unit for 8 hours then left it on over night with no ill effects or excess heat. Parts for a batch of 25are on order at the moment for assembly in 2 or 3 weeks but my test unit will be available for playing with at Swanley. Expected price is £15 with a 5 year full replacement or repair warranty.
On rethinking the sales of the controllers, I have decided to up the price to £20 and include a 2 amp power supply. I am currently waiting for these to arrive.
One added bonus to this controller is that it will work with a supply from 6 to 36 volt, maximum output always being a little below the supply voltage. It will do all this and deliver up to 3 Amps as well, making it suitable for O gauge and old 3 rail 4mm which can be a bit heavy on power. I have just found out that the circuit board has built in overload protection that shuts it down to protect itself, it resets automatically when the speed is turned right down. If you want one for use other than 12 volt up to 2 amp, ask as other power units are available to order.
Also on show will be a small Chinese worm drive motor/gearbox which I have successfully converted to drive a 2mm axle and a planetary geared motor, which is now driving my Nigel Lawton Simplex via 2 O ring drives.
Due to the coming lack of Mashima motors, I have been testing various Chinese alternatives. Some will replace an existing Mashima and some have diagonally positioned screw holes, requiring a gearbox modification for them to be usable. My 3D printed kits use a 12/24 motor which seems every bit as good as a Mashima. My power bogie uses a powerful little 10 volt 8/11 can motor, a size that Mashima never made.
The upshot of this is that I now have alternatives to the 10/15, 10/20, 10/24 and 12/24. There are others that Mashima never made are like 8/15 and 12/27 and some that are no use to me like a miniscule 6/8mm can and several massive motors, more suitable for standard O gauge or bigger. Some of these are not rated at 12 volt and require an inline resistor which will be supplied where required.
I have had to increase the price of the Joffre by £15as it uses some expensive parts and is becoming not cost effective to produce. It is still selling surprisingly well, considering that it was my first kit.
The price of the Brigadewagen had to be increased by £10 as well for similar reasons, the castings make up nearly half the price.
Unless anything sneaks into production ahead of time, my next kit will be the French WW1 Pechot Bourdon. This has been requested by several people and I must thank Paul Berntsen of New Zealand and Peter Hohn of Germany for the loan of their photo and drawing collections. Projected release date is the second half of 2018.
At some point I will be producing a Peckett Cranmore 0-4-0ST as it uses much the same parts as the Gamecock, all of which which I already have in stock.
Also a shorter power bogie, 24.5mm down to 14mm w/b. This cannot have the motor underneath as it is too short so the motor will be above, making it only suitable for small diesels with a bonnet to hide the motor. This will have a 3D printed one piece frame, meaning that the buyer only has to fit the wheels and gears, almost no soldering at all. The gear ratio will be around 30:1 and, as they are smaller, will allow wheels down to 7.5mm diameter.
A side effect of this is that I can offer any wheelbase as I only have to alter the 3D drawing and print it. I will also be able to draw bespoke units that fit a particular body, you would have to send me the body first though as I have to measure it.
I recently bought a wheel profiling tool to enable me to have disc wheels made to order. I will need 9mm for the new power bogie and I will order wheels for the Peckett and Brigadelok as I have not been over impressed with the ones I am currently using. It is RP25 code 110, about the same as the later Hornby/Bachmann profile, about right for this scale. I will have disc wheels made in 10.5, 9.5 and 8.5mm to start with.
These are my first successful prints of the new power bogie, the first couple of attempts failed as I got the spacing between layshaft and axles wrong. They are shown next to their respective bodies, a Schoma diesel on the left and an LKM on the right, both from Shapeways.
These 2 use 12:1 worm sets and a 3:1 O ring drive from a 10/15 can motor, Chinese, not a Mashima. They use 10.5mm Romford/Jackson wheels and run commendably slowly with a top speed of around 30mph. The bogie is quiet and smooth and will suit all gauges down to 12mm.
These 2 were drawn specially for the bodies they fit, a universal version would have a platform at both ends which can be cut down as required.
I should have some available at Swanley. I was intending to cover 14.5, 16, 17.5, 19, 22 and 23mm wheelbases, if you want one not on this list, let me know and I will print one specially for you.
I am making 3 for myself with 10:1 worm sets and another using Tenshodo gears. Both of these options keep the height down making a unit that is lower than a Tenshodo, excluding the motor of course.
One good point, apart from the lack of soldering, is that these can be assembled in less than 1.5 hours.
I have recently become fixated on Simplexes and bought 3D printed bodies in 1:43 from Shapeways for the 20hp bowframe, 40hp armoured and protercted and the 32/42hp type used I think at Leighton Buzzard. Both are powered by a planetary geared motor across the frames with twin O rings driving the axles. I also made a similar chassis to go under my Nigel Lawton 20hp bowframe as I never did get the original running well. It turns out that the Lawton one is about 20% oversize, see pictures below.
The motor used in the Lawton kit and the 40hp versions is an 8/15 can rated at 142 rpm and the wheels will be 10.5mm. The 20hp bowframe uses a 6mm coreless motor rated at 72 rpm and the pulley arrangement gears this up a little as it would be too slow as a direct drive, this uses my 9.5mm wheels. Both run well and are very good at slow speeds. They are a bit noisy when run fast but this shouldn't affect a simplex as their top haulage speed was only 5mph.
If there is sufficient interest I will buy some bodies for stock and sell them as a complete kit. Prices would likely be around £65 for the bowframe, £70 for the armoured or protected and £90 for the 32/42hp as the body print is a lot dearer due to the material used. Chassis for any of them will be £40 in kit form. As kits go, these are probably the quickest ever to assemble as the body only needs minor mods to take the chassis and that can be assembled in 1.5 hours. This is not even a weekend job, an evening will be enough.
The printed Power Bogie kit reached completion quicker than I expected. Details can be found on the Parts and Accessories page.