All my loco kits are sold complete except for couplings. All outside frame loco kits can be built to any gauge from 12mm to 16.5mm, inside frame kits only to gauges where axles are available, usually 12mm, 14mm and 16.5mm. Some kits include jigs for assembling coupling/connecting rods and for quartering the wheels where required. Assembly is by tabs and slots and all screws, bushes, motor, gearbox, wheels and axles are included.
Although most of my kits require soldering skills, you don't have to be an expert, beginners have bought my kits and produced good results. The trick is not to look at the whole job which will seem daunting, but to take it in stages. Each stage will be a lot easier to tackle if you only concentrate on that and think about the rest later. Use 145 solder for the main body assembly and higher temperature electrical solder for the chassis and smaller parts.
Goods can be paid for by bank transfer or Paypal (instant) or by cheque (7 day delay), email for details. At shows I can take cash or card payments using my new smart phone linked card reader. Technology is a wonderful thing, I just hope it works when I need it.
If you have any problems with the instructions CDs, the full instructions and more can be downloaded from my other site set up specially for downloads. Click on the DOWNLOADS button below to go there. These are also available to anyone who wants to look a kit over before buying it.
Built by The Model Works Australia, one of each gauge available, see Loco Kits for details. The 14mm one has now sold.
I had to fit Kadee couplings to a Peckett and found that they interfered with the chassis fixing screws. The solution was an extension to move the coupling out a few millimeters. Rather than make them I drew them in 3D and printed them. They were so successful that I printed some more and they are available in pairs, see parts and accessories.
See Parts and Accessories for details.
Due to the coming lack of Mashima motors, I have been testing various Chinese alternatives. Some will replace an existing Mashima and some have diagonally positioned screw holes, requiring a gearbox modification for them to be usable. My 3D printed kits use a 12/24 motor which seems every bit as good as a Mashima. My power bogie uses a powerful little 10 volt 8/11 can motor, a size that Mashima never made.
The upshot of this is that I now have alternatives to the 10/15, 10/20, 10/24 and 12/24. There are others that Mashima never made are like 8/15 and 12/27 and some that are no use to me like a miniscule 6/8mm can and several massive motors, more suitable for standard O gauge or bigger.
Unless anything sneaks into production ahead of time, my next kit will be the French WW1 Pechot Bourdon. This has been requested by several people and I must thank Paul Berntsen of New Zealand and Peter Hohn of Germany for the loan of their photo and drawing collections. Projected release date is the second half of 2018.
The Peckett Cranmore 0-4-0ST has sneaked in ahead of the Pechot Bourdon and should be available by about April. This is an easy one as it uses a lot of the Gamecock parts, just a new set of etches and 2 castings required.
I recently bought a wheel profiling tool to enable me to have disc wheels made to order. I will need 9mm for the new power bogie and I will order wheels for the Peckett and Brigadelok as I have not been over impressed with the ones I am currently using. It is RP25 code 110, about the same as the later Hornby/Bachmann profile, about right for this scale. I will have disc wheels made in 10.5, 9.5 and 8.5mm to start with.
I was asked by Henrik Laurell, who is behind quite a few of Shapeways 3D printed loco bodies, to design a chassis for said bodies. This is a build of the first test etch and a complete etch. The item below the chassis is a crank setting jig.
This chassis will be available as a kit or RTR in gauges 10.5, 12, 14 and 16.5mm. Some details vary according to the body to be used so I will need to know which one you are buying.
Hopefully available in April/May. Email if you want one and I will add you to the list.
My test build is of an industrial version and now mostly complete. Its a superb runner and with all that whitemetal will pull about 50 wagons!
This is my first test build of the new chassis kit for the Barclay E class whitemetal kit by S&D models. It can be built to 12, 14 or 16.5mm gauge and features compensation, 13mm Scalelink wheels, a Chinese 10/15 can motor with a 40:1 two stage gearbox. Also included is a cab floor, a 3D printed boiler backhead to hide the motor, cast brass gauge glasses and a firedoor and reverser etch from my range. The cylinders can be fitted level or inclined.
The chassis will be sold complete with all parts required to finish it, all you need is the body to go on top. S&D sell these for £40 and are not planning to discontinue them any time soon. I have ordered a few and can supply the body with the chassis if you need both.
The example shown has 14mm Romford wheels as the Scalelink ones had not yet arrived. It is also lacking some last bits that I still need to fit. These test etches were over etched a little, making the valve gear look more spindly than it actually is. The square ends on most of the rods are prototypical as this was an industrial design. This example has inclined cylinders.
Price is still TBA and the release date will be around mid April.
If you want one,email and I will advise when they are available.
Mock up using S&D kit as basis
Mock up using S&D boiler and cab front
I have been asked if I will do a chassis for the larger Barclay, as inthe preserved SHANE in Ireland and what later became TOM ROLT on the Talylyn. The idea was to use the S&D castings with a suitable chassis.
This Barclay is considerably bigger than the E class so I have drawn 2 mock ups shown on the left. The top one uses most of the S&D kit but with a new chimney and smokebox saddle. The chassis has been enlarged and has a longer wheelbase.
The lower one is as the loco should look with a longer cab and chassis extended to the rear and a larger dome and sand box. This one would only use the S&D boiler and cab front as the rest is all too small.
If anyone thinks that either of these is a good idea, email and let me know. At the moment I would be biased towards the top one as I can reuse most of the chassis and only 6 castings would be needed, the other is more like a complete kit and would take longer and cost more.